Inside Lalish, the heart of the Yazidi faith

The holy village Yazidis are coming back to

It's Easter weekend and I'm having a religious bank holiday like no other, en route to an ancient village in northern Iraq. After a couple of hours of driving through the mountains from Erbil (including an obligatory kebab stop), my boyfriend and I arrive in Lalish, a small village and temple complex in Shekhan Valley that's home to the holiest temple of the Yazidi faith.

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[CW: Violence, sexual violence, genocide]